![]() Master of Music Education (MME)in Music Therapy Degree Program Master of Music Education (MME) Degree Program Master of Music Education (Music Ed & Music Therapy) Woodwinds Performance - Master of Music (MM) Wind Conducting (Band) - Master of Music (MM) Strings Performance - Master of Music (MM) Orchestral Conducting - Master of Music (MM) Music Recording Undergraduate Certificateīrass and Percussion Master of Music (MM)Ĭhurch Music Choral Emphasis - Master of Music (MM)Ĭhurch Music Organ Emphasis - Master of Music (MM) Undergraduate Financial Aid & Scholarshipsīachelor of Fine Arts in Theatre-Voice Degree Requirements So in the key of C and the sharp keys the horn is easy to play as the positions are close to the same as with the F valve for C, B, Bb, and A.Graduate Application Frequently Asked Questions Low B in two trigger long 2nd position is an easy hit. Peddle BBb is in a long 3rd and plays easy too. Low C with both valves is in first position and plays very open. I had a new tuning slide made with larger tubing in C so now the horn is Bb/F/C. The second valve was set up as a dependent Bb/F/E. The bell is very soft and thin and plays like a dream. I think Bach variations in their quality of assembly shows. Before this the horn was really good, after reassembly it was incredible. A solder joint let go in the mid 80’s and my tech reassembled the bell section. There is no serial number it was lost when the horn was reassembled. The bell was stamped Elkhorn and Corporation at that time on an angle to the original engraving. With the new valve the new style twin keys were put on the bell brace. The same guy told me that was where the original lever was. He said it had been in their store for years before they sent it back. The sales guy I worked with said the horn was originally a single valve Mount Vernon horn that Giardinelli sent to Bach to add a second valve. ![]() My Bass Bach 50 was bought in the 70’s from Giardinelli in New York. Especially with new horns, it's hard to find them tuned any other way. That requires that you use a lot of 6th and 7th position, and gets kind of hairy when you have to go back and forth between B nat and Bb or E and Eb.Įach system has advantages and disadvantages, you gotta find what you like best, but the indy Bb/F/#Gb/D is the most common. I also used to have a single valve instrument and had an Eb extension made for it. The first note you can play on the second valve is Gb, and it's pretty far out if 1&2 D is in tune.Ī lot of older dependent horns just come with an E valve, which is only meant to be used to extend the slide enough for low C and B. I don't like calling out flat notes in 1st position, they're useless. I used to subscribe to the Bollinger that Andy mentions, but I've switched to Bb/F/#Gb/D. I used to have a dependent bass bone, and I tuned 2nd valve to Eb, but D is just as good. You get a lot of 5th position notes up close. It requires a bit of dexterity, but a huge advantage when you get into 4 or more flats or 2 sharps in a key signature. There's a big benefit to learning how to use the second trigger independently. 1st and 2nd together I tune to D, so that puts Db/Gb in very flat first, about 3" out. I tune 1st valve to F, and that puts C about 1" out. For some reason Bb/G/bE/D tuning isn't very popular, however. I would probably put the shorter valve as high as i could (I really like G attachments) and put the longer valve lower to get separation between them to give me a more 'mathematically optimal' number of choices. If I didn't have to go back and forth between an indy and a dependent horn, I am not sure I would do it the way I do. Read up on Bollinger tuning, many threads here, this is a High second valve (often requiring tubing to be cut) to put a lot of things down the slide in a better place. I know where the F/C are on the second valve and that works for me. ![]() well, I don't really care WHERE that is, I almost never use Gb/Db in first. Taking that to independent, I try not to confuse myself, so I leave the F in the same place and tune the combined valves so that they are the same. With a dependent, I usually have the F tuned fairly short, so that I have room to move it up a bit and put the D close to right on as I mostly use it for Db and lower. You'll find a nearly infinite number of options here.
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